After my recent trip to Fernando de Noronha, 06/01/2014-12/01/2014, I felt it necessary to share my experience of the island and impart some knowledge that I learned along the way.
On purchasing the plane ticket to the island I was surprised to find a R$537.35 tax on top of the price of the two tickets, but i thought it was probably the island tax that each tourist is required to pay before entering. However, on arrival I was surprised to be charged a further R$100.08 environmental tax. Any tourist visiting the island should be prepared for the different charges for accessing the island and its beaches.
In addition to the environmental tax that is paid at the airport, you also need to buy a beach pass to access the beaches in the national park: Praia Sancho, Praia do Leao, Baia do Sueste and Praia da Atalaia. The pass costs R$75.00 for Brazilians and residents in Brazil and R$150.00 for foreign visitors, I advise that you purchase this pass on your first day in Vila dos Remedios square. It is also strongly advisable to register yourself to visit Praia da Atalaia at the museum and wildlife centre located at the Boldro turning, as there is a limited number of visitors allowed per day and could be a waiting list.
Once you have got all the official stuff organised you will need to think about transport around the island as the beaches are spread out and not so easy to get to. A popular way to move about the island is by renting a beach buggy which cost between R$100-R$130 per day. Make sure you rent one in good condition as many have seen better days. Also check the availability of petrol on the island, as you may find that there is a shortage and would therefore need to wake up early to fill the tank. Alternatively you can use taxis, they charge between R$20.00-R$30.00 for most journeys, so 4 taxis a day is roughly equal to a beach buggy. The only issue with taking taxis is trying to book one for a return journey from the beaches. Calling a taxi was difficult as quite often there was very weak and limited phone signal. The island bus goes to Baia do Sueste and passes by most of the villages, but is not good for most of the beaches that are only accessible by a dirt road.
The beaches are all incredibly beautiful, but depending on the time of year not all are good for swimming. I went to the island in January which is ideal for surfers but not for swimmers. In fact you could only swim safely at Baia do Sueste, and with more risk at Praia do Leao because the waves were too big at all the other beaches. As I said before there are beaches in the national park for which you will need a pass, but there are also free beaches: Praia Cacimba do Padre, Praia do Bode, Praia dos Americanas, Praia Boldro and Praia da Conceicao.
Besides Praia do Leao the national park beaches are quite well organised with a shop, showers, toilets and snack bar. These facilites are not located on the beach, but you will have to pass through them to get to the beach. At the snack bar you are able to rent sunshades and chairs and get cold non alcoholic drinks, also the shop assistants can call you a taxi if you need one. If you go to Praia do Leao you will need to be more prepared, as there is no infrastructure at all and you will have to take your own sunshade, chairs and drinks. I was told that in the future it will be like the other national park beaches with the facilities but not as yet.
The public beaches have simple bars and restaurants and you can rent chairs and sunshades. Praia Conceicao does not have toilets, although the others have porta loo facilities. This may not appear to be a problem but when considering you can't easily enter the water it could be a problem.
There is also the port that has a great sunset spot called Mergulhao where you can get a nice drink and good food, of course, it is totally overpriced, but that goes for most of the places on the island. Eating out and drinking on the Island can be very expensive, but there are some cheaper options.
Eating out, in general, was a disappointment as most restaurants are very expensive but offer very average food. If you like to drink wine with your meal you are more limited to restaurants in the posher hotels or environmental lodges, because the local restaurants don't usually have wine on offer. White wine drinkers are at even more of a disadvantage as even good restaurants notably "Ze Maria" don't chill white wine. My advice is drink caipirinha or beer.
Most accommodation on the island is simple providing only basic necessities and very few places are located near a beach. There are more exclusive hotels, but the design and atmosphere did not really justify the price. True in hotel you have the advantage of having everything organised for you and, therefore, you will probably need not be concerned with the troublesome task of renting buggies and getting to and from the beaches. If ,however, you prefer more independent travel the simple pousadas don't always give you all the information you need on arrival, hence the blog entry!!
To conclude, the island is great place to visit and see some amazing marine life and beaches, but it is not cheap, it is difficult to access things and difficult to move around, so be prepared.
